I'd only started noticing that something had gone wrong when I got a call from Naomi [Campbell], she called me and said, "You gotta do something about it, it's really bad, they're not using any models of color."

We don't have a watchdog in fashion, we don't have HR to go to, so it is important to get that word out to someone whether it's an agent or someone like me and we should all come together and figure out what we can do.

People weren't meaning to be racist, but they didn't know. Action signals change, not intent. So when someone feels like they're not getting a fair shake, you gotta speak on it.

That's a very privileged attitude and I think the ignorance is so strong there. When people say, "Oh please, I don't want to hear that conversation," it's because it makes them uncomfortable." But that's because they think it's all okay. If it was racist, I would move onto someone whose mind I could change, but it's mostly ignorance. So when someone says, "Oh, it doesn't matter," I not only make designers responsible but casting directors and modeling agencies for not pushing those other girls on to the designers.

Only when you know who you are will you be able to find the courage to do what drives you-with integrity and grace.

Activism has to remain active. That's the trademark slogan and that's the mantra, because if your foot doesn't stay on the pedal, the car will stop.

A friend of mine, Kim Hastreiter, who owns Paper Magazine, she told me, "When you left, it really changed things and you need to do something." So with the encouragement of others, I stayed around and watched, and I saw that all the girls before, such an enormous group of girls of color, all shades, it began to disappear.