It was what God had taught me growing up that helped me overcome my fear and get back on the board. 'Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go' (Joshua 1:9).

Strive to find things to be thankful for and just look for the good in who you are!

In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.

Fear is something that can really hold us all back from different things in life. It's important to notice what your fears are and try to conquer them.

I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!

I wouldn't change what happened to me because then I wouldn't have this chance, in front of all of you, to embrace more people than I ever could have with two arms.

I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.