It was what God had taught me growing up that helped me overcome my fear and get back on the board. 'Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go' (Joshua 1:9).

God has a lot more to give and to offer than the world has to give.

I think it doesn't matter if you are the best surfer in the world. I'm going to try to be the best surfer I can be. It's not all about competing and being the best. It's more about having fun and just doing what you love.

Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.

My belief is where I get my strength. When I'm struggling with something, I can go to him for help and I'm excited to share that.

It's sad to hear that 1 in 3 girls have an eating disorder, because they're trying to be something that they think they need to be, when it's such a lie that they believe. Meanwhile all over the world there's people that are starving or dying of something crazy that we forget, and we think we're the only ones in this world.

I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.