I'm actually not star-struck... I like to give people their own space and admire them from a distance.

The paramedic whispered in my ear 'God will never leave you or forsake you.'

Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.

My only real fear was that I would not be able to surf again because I was concerned that I would not physically be able to do it. I knew that if I wasn't able to surf then my life would really change.

Being out there in the ocean, God's creation, it's like a gift He has given us to enjoy.

I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!

You fall off the horse and you get back on.