To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.

God has a lot more to give and to offer than the world has to give.

The end...is just the beginning

I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.

None of us are going to have perfect lives. Our own vision of what we think is good maybe different from what He [God] thinks. And we forget that. We think we know what's best and we don't.

Courage doesn't mean you don't get afraid. Courage means you don't let fear stop you.

It was what God had taught me growing up that helped me overcome my fear and get back on the board. 'Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go' (Joshua 1:9).