I was a good surfer because we grew up a block from the water, and my father took us to the ocean the way other fathers take their kids to the park.

I think my parents were high when they named me.

It took me several years to figure out who I am and a few more to accept what I discovered. Now, I'm in the enjoyment stage of that process and it's a happy place.

I didn't have a good childhood because I never could get along with other kids. I was the child that sat in the corner eating lunch by herself.

Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.

I love to work. You want to talk about natural highs? There's nothing like it.

Its diamonds in your pockets one week, macaroni and cheese the next.