It's ironic, I used to ride my bike to make a living. Now I just want to live so that I can ride.

Losing and dying: it's the same thing.

Obviously, I come from one background, and the people that design fitness equipment have been doing it for years and years, and they know what works and doesn't work.

I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.

Nobody needs to cry for me. I'm going to be great.

What athletes do may not be that healthy, the way we push our bodies completely over the edge to the degrees that are not human. I've said all along that I will not live as long as the average person.

It's tougher for me. But I don't think that's imperative to me starting a new movement, or revive an old movement, to help people.