Losing and dying: it's the same thing.

Hey. Pain can last a moment, it can last a day, it can last a week, it can last a long..long time, but it can't last forever and the only thing that can last forever is if you quit.

I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.

If you're trying to hide something, you wouldn't keep getting away with it for 10 years. Nobody is that clever.

I got the three things I wanted. I did my job, I worked hard in the process, and I cherish the memories, and they're mine.

We have unrealized capacities that sometimes only emerge in crisis.

A bike ride. Yes, that's it! A simple bike ride. It's what I love to do and most days I can't believe they pay me to do it. A day is not the same without it.