Look at it! It's a once in a lifetime opportunity, man! Let me go out there and let me get one wave, just one wave before you take me in. I mean, come on man, where I am I gonna go? Cliffs on both sides! I'm not gonna paddle my way to New Zealand! Come on, compadre. Come on!

I don't want to be a poster child for cancer.

I'm not afraid of death. I'm going home.

Feel what the wave is doing, then accept its energy.

When people are away from home, they do things they might not normally do.

Everything is designed to help you sell out.

I want you to be nice...until it's time to not be nice.