Talent deserves to be honored. Hands deserve to be slapped if you do something stupid as well, but don't take it too far.

Feel what the wave is doing, then accept its energy.

Talent deserves to be honored. Hands deserve to be slapped if you do something stupid as well, but don't take it too far.

Dance is the pure language of the soul - it's been with us from the very beginning.

My indigestion issues got gigantic and constant. And then I started thinking, I'm getting skinny. I dropped about 20 pounds in the blink of an eye. And then when you see it in the mirror, when all of a sudden, you pull your eyes down and the bottom of your eyes go yellow and jaundice sets in - then you know something's wrong.

Look at it! It's a once in a lifetime opportunity, man! Let me go out there and let me get one wave, just one wave before you take me in. I mean, come on man, where I am I gonna go? Cliffs on both sides! I'm not gonna paddle my way to New Zealand! Come on, compadre. Come on!

When it looks like I may live longer than five minutes I'll drop cigarettes like a hot potato.