I want you to be nice...until it's time to not be nice.

How do you nurture a positive attitude when all the statistics say you're a dead man? You go to work.

All you have to do is follow three simple rules. One, never underestimate your opponent. Expect the unexpected. Two, take it outside. Never start anything inside the bar unless it's absolutely necessary. And three, be nice.

Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god

The longer your life goes on, the more death you face.

I will go so far as to say probably smoking had something to do with my pancreatic cancer.

Look at it! It's a once in a lifetime opportunity, man! Let me go out there and let me get one wave, just one wave before you take me in. I mean, come on man, where I am I gonna go? Cliffs on both sides! I'm not gonna paddle my way to New Zealand! Come on, compadre. Come on!