Surviving is the strongest memory I have; the sense of having walked on water.

There is nowhere else I'd rather be, nothing else I would prefer to be doing. I am at the beach looking west with the continent behind me as the sun tracks down to the sea. I have my bearings.

When I was a girl I had this strong feeling that I didn't belong anywhere,... It was in my head, what I thought and dreamt, what I believed..., that's where I belonged, that was my country.

Wherever I went I felt like the last person awake in a room full of sleepers

I went to school for 12 years, and uni for four, but I learnt more about human existence in the 30 hours it took my first child to be born than I did in all those years of study.

It's impossible to imagine what Australia would be like without surfing.

The end of the world begins in the sea we love.