It's dark already and I'm out here again, talking, telling the story to the quiet night.

Surfers travelled and opened up and changed. It became more mainstream, less of a cult. And it diversified. On any given day in the water now I'll meet three generations of surfers, male and female, everyone sporting a different craft. I started surfing in the 60s and I can tell you it's infinitely more diverse. It might be more crowded but it's also more interesting.

We rise to a challenge and set a course. We take a decision. You put your mind to something. Just deciding to do it gets you halfway there. Daring to try.

It's impossible to imagine what Australia would be like without surfing.

Surviving is the strongest memory I have; the sense of having walked on water.

Humour is God's special gift to humanity. Handy, because it turns out to be necessary.

The end of the world begins in the sea we love.