Whatever you believe, you need faith to get through the day.

It’s how I fill the time when nothing’s happening. Thinking too much, flirting with melancholy.

Surfers travelled and opened up and changed. It became more mainstream, less of a cult. And it diversified. On any given day in the water now I'll meet three generations of surfers, male and female, everyone sporting a different craft. I started surfing in the 60s and I can tell you it's infinitely more diverse. It might be more crowded but it's also more interesting.

We are all part of that global traffic and I think that the effort to make yourself understood and to be not a problem for anyone or to hide your own particuarly is a mistake. I think people will and do value individuality.

Truly brave people accept that they may not see victory in their own lifetime. You just keep at it for the sake of those who come after you. You might not win but you stand a better chance by doing something.

Different tenses and perspectives offer you different things. It helps to distinguish the world that they are in.

It's funny, but you never really think much about breathing. Until it's all you ever think about.