I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.

I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.

You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure who you are.

I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.

Living a happy life is my main priority. You guys may think I am selfish for "wasting my talent" by staying away from events for a bit, but I am finally at a comfortable place where I can honestly say, if you guys see me out on tour again it's because I am there to win, and I'm going to go 100%.