God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.

Your looks do not define who you are.

I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.

To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.

I'm actually not star-struck... I like to give people their own space and admire them from a distance.

Being creative on the waves is challenging, but we each create art in our own way.

Strive to find things to be thankful for and just look for the good in who you are!