God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.

To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.

Surfing is a huge passion of mine. I'm and addict to it in a sense. I think it is a good addiction. I spend about anywhere from two to eight hours a day in the water when I am home. I enjoy competing and traveling. I don't know, I just like being in the ocean and enjoying God's creation. Just the adrenaline you get and its good exercise you get at the same time.

Being creative on the waves is challenging, but we each create art in our own way.

When I was about five, I gave my heart to Jesus Christ, and since then it's just been a stronghold in my life. Really, through the shark attack and all the hard times that my family and I went through, it gave us unity and perseverance to push through all this crazy stuff that we never knew was going to happen.

Strive to find things to be thankful for and just look for the good in who you are!

Courage doesn't mean you don't get afraid. Courage means you don't let fear stop you.