Surfing is so unique and it's something that no matter what level you are, you can go and have fun. You can pick and choose the waves that you want to surf, so if it is too big and scary, you can wait until it changes and gets more to your level. Every time you go out it's always different and unique. It's almost like a place you can just de-stress.

Love is bigger than any tidal wave or fear.

The paramedic whispered in my ear 'God will never leave you or forsake you.'

Being out there in the ocean, God's creation, it's like a gift He has given us to enjoy.

I can't change it, That was God's plan for my life and I'm going to go with it.

I just try to be myself and not conform to something I'm not and just continue doing what I do. I just try not to think about the fact that I'm an inspiration for people.

Our health and well-being is something that we can almost control, to a certain extent. We can choose to eat healthy, we can choose to think positively, and we can choose to have good posture. All this stuff makes a difference, and the way that you look and feel, and your confidence.