Surfing is a huge passion of mine. I'm and addict to it in a sense. I think it is a good addiction. I spend about anywhere from two to eight hours a day in the water when I am home. I enjoy competing and traveling. I don't know, I just like being in the ocean and enjoying God's creation. Just the adrenaline you get and its good exercise you get at the same time.
Bethany HamiltonBoth of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
Bethany HamiltonLife is full of what-ifs. You canโt let it hold you back. If you do, youโre not really living at allโฆ just kind of going through the motions with no meaning
Bethany Hamilton