My only real fear was that I would not be able to surf again because I was concerned that I would not physically be able to do it. I knew that if I wasn't able to surf then my life would really change.
Bethany HamiltonI love the ocean, and I love surfing. It's something so special and unique, and surfing is unlike any other sport. Skateboarding is amazing, you get the adrenaline rush, but you don't get the feel of the ocean, of doing its own thing. Totally surrounding you. Definitely a unique thing, it's a blessing, and a huge part of my healing process I would say.
Bethany HamiltonLife is a lot like surfingโฆ When you get caught in the impact zone, youโve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Bethany Hamilton