Surfing is very special and unique. It's really hard to explain unless you've tried it. It's being out in the ocean in the sun, the water on your skin, and the adrenalin rush when you catch a wave. You have to be creative so it's like an art form in a way.
Bethany HamiltonLife is a lot like surfingโฆ When you get caught in the impact zone, youโve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Bethany HamiltonI believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
Bethany Hamilton