I believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.

It was what God had taught me growing up that helped me overcome my fear and get back on the board. 'Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go' (Joshua 1:9).

Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.

People can do whatever they want if they just set their heart to it, and just never give up, and just go out there and do it.

God has a lot more to give and to offer than the world has to give.

Courage doesn't mean you don't get afraid. Courage means you don't let fear stop you.

The author describes how impressed she was with the detailed storyboards that outlined her movie – "not just sketches, but real art". She then describes a Hawaiian sunset as, "God painting His storyboard on the sky".