Losing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.
Bethany HamiltonGod created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
Bethany HamiltonMy favorite thing [about surfing] is being creative on waves; it's like an art form. You can do whatever you want on that wave if you work hard at it and just have fun out there.
Bethany HamiltonI love the ocean, and I love surfing. It's something so special and unique, and surfing is unlike any other sport. Skateboarding is amazing, you get the adrenaline rush, but you don't get the feel of the ocean, of doing its own thing. Totally surrounding you. Definitely a unique thing, it's a blessing, and a huge part of my healing process I would say.
Bethany HamiltonMy faith in God is a huge part of my life, and yeah He has blessed me with an amazing family, and group of friends. In the Bible he tells us to think positively about ourselves, to not be down on ourselves. So I just try to live the way He wants me to, and make the best decisions I can.
Bethany Hamilton