When I was about five, I gave my heart to Jesus Christ, and since then it's just been a stronghold in my life. Really, through the shark attack and all the hard times that my family and I went through, it gave us unity and perseverance to push through all this crazy stuff that we never knew was going to happen.
Bethany HamiltonLife is a lot like surfingโฆ When you get caught in the impact zone, youโve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Bethany HamiltonI believe in Jesus Christ, and I believe He gave me the passion and determination to continue surfing. You fall off the horse, and you get back on. I had to go for it.
Bethany HamiltonThat's really what ultimately matters - the emotions and feelings that you experienced and people around [whom] you experienced [them].
Bethany HamiltonI love the ocean, and I love surfing. It's something so special and unique, and surfing is unlike any other sport. Skateboarding is amazing, you get the adrenaline rush, but you don't get the feel of the ocean, of doing its own thing. Totally surrounding you. Definitely a unique thing, it's a blessing, and a huge part of my healing process I would say.
Bethany Hamilton