Being creative on the waves is challenging, but we each create art in our own way.

I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.

We all go through rough times. We have those obstacles that seem too large to overcome or that current that you never seem to swim out of. We have to decide what matters most to us - our passions.

Losing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.

I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!

The author describes how impressed she was with the detailed storyboards that outlined her movie – "not just sketches, but real art". She then describes a Hawaiian sunset as, "God painting His storyboard on the sky".

I'm actually not star-struck... I like to give people their own space and admire them from a distance.