Losing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.
It was what God had taught me growing up that helped me overcome my fear and get back on the board. 'Be strong and courageous. Do not be terrified; do not be discouraged, for the LORD your God will be with you wherever you go' (Joshua 1:9).
You don't need easy, you just need possible.
The end...is just the beginning
I don't want easy, just possible.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.