In New York there are between four and six big designers, and the shows last one week. There is something wrong here. It's our fault. We can't stand up for it. They take our ads, don't they? Why don't they want to stay longer in Milan? Why do we have to comply? We have the most beautiful brands, they are Italians.

For me, money is to use - it's only to use. So I never have money because I always spend. That's why in a way I protect myself in having houses. But if I had just cash or kept it in the bank, I'd spend it immediately. But not for stupid things. So I don't like to have money. I never have money in my pocket.

I was doing the Black Issue in 2006 and then went to Africa for Uomo Vogue. I've worked with Gucci and Fendi, committed to create jobs. Fifty percent of those ads went to non-government organizations in Africa. [Nelson] Mandela was on the cover, it helped create attention.

Fashion is a mirror of the era in which we live. Why should the magazine be disconnected from reality? It's not like in the past.

I started entering in a series of problems I had never occupied myself with - water, production, employment. I am learning. You can do so many things. However, I don't feel guilty for living well here.

We lack an organization that will support fashion week. The five-day week shows a lack of vision and that we are not able to command respect. I am not saying it's anyone's fault in particular, it's our fault. We have the highest concentration of brands, how can we accommodate everyone in four or five days?

What worries me is that now, communication is virtual.