I was doing the Black Issue in 2006 and then went to Africa for Uomo Vogue. I've worked with Gucci and Fendi, committed to create jobs. Fifty percent of those ads went to non-government organizations in Africa. [Nelson] Mandela was on the cover, it helped create attention.

I don't have time, I watch movies, or shows people are talking about. Television is the medium I use the least; I'd rather use my computer, iPhone or iPad.

We've created a community and these images [from Vogue] will live on with exhibitions, postcards, projections. We help them gain more exposure. Instagram already works as a selection. It's my curiosity into the world of youth, what they do, what they buy.

We lack an organization that will support fashion week. The five-day week shows a lack of vision and that we are not able to command respect. I am not saying it's anyone's fault in particular, it's our fault. We have the highest concentration of brands, how can we accommodate everyone in four or five days?

Bloggers now have no concept. They are given things; they put them on, take pictures, and then just disappear from sight. Who cares?

I think I just do what I feel is good to do. Everybody can give me their suggestions, but at the end, the final risk is mine because it's my name on the magazine. So I only do what I really feel. Everybody tries to influence you, of course: "Oh, this is the right moment to do this" and "This is the right photographer to choose," and "This is the right model to have . . ." I listen, but I must go my own way. When you take risks, it means that you know every month people are there to judge you.

I started entering in a series of problems I had never occupied myself with - water, production, employment. I am learning. You can do so many things. However, I don't feel guilty for living well here.