I started as a black-and-white teenage photographer, and I'm still there decades after. In some ways, the genre is almost gone. I am thinking of true, stubborn, lifetime black-and-white photographers, as opposed to black-and-white as a photographic commodity.

I thought I should work more on the idea that you wear a suit or a jacket because of the fun it can provide, because it's a game, because it might even have a sexual quality.

I like it to stay very organic, and to remember a personal story behind all my subjects.

I shared this idea that fashion starts with a movement, an allure: elusive, defined through perfect proportions.

People always want an explanation about everything and I cannot give it to them. Because I don't know myself. 'Why did you do a pair of pants like that?' I have no idea. I'm not going to have a 20-minute political discussion about the necessity for slashed, painted leather jeans. Basically, I don't know more than you.

Men's fashion has a certain heaviness in the fabrics and construction. But also there is a heaviness in the mentality.

Men are not supposed to be mysterious. That's what you say about women. But I think men can have a little of it, too.