As a writer of criticism, the consumer thing is the least interesting thing, but as a critic, the single worst thing you can do is send a reader to waste time and money on something - even if it's something you personally love. You have to indicate the reasons why you love it and they'll hate it.

I write mostly positive reviews. I don't write about places that don't interest me.

As a writer of criticism, the consumer thing is the least interesting thing, but as a critic, the single worst thing you can do is send a reader to waste time and money on something - even if it's something you personally love. You have to indicate the reasons why you love it and they'll hate it.

I think every culture is passionate about food; some are just passionate about food and the food is shitty.

In a lot of ways I think food is starting to take the place in culture that rock and roll took 30 years ago, in that eating has become incredibly political. And just as the street has always dictated fashions on music and other things, it’s starting to happen that way in food.

In a lot of ways I think food is starting to take the place in culture that rock and roll took 30 years ago.

I think the point of obsession with food means we're healthy as a species. When we're hungry, everything tastes good, hunger is the best spice. When you're in a area that has few resources, you work incredibly hard to have something. And then you make the something taste good. The greatest food in the world comes from the inventiveness of great privation. What emerges is all the miraculous fermentations and all the strong flavors. You put it together in the right way, it's delicious. That defines survival, and our human species.