Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Everything started coming into my head, ... I was the youngest world champ and now I'm the oldest world champ; it's been seven years since I won my last title and this is my seventh one ... but all those numbers and things are not as important as the feeling.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.

I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.

Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.