Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.
It's all about where your mind's at
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.