Suffering, I was beginning to think, was essential to a good life, and as inextricable from such a life as bliss. It’s a great enhancer. It might last a minute, but eventually it subsides, and when it does, something else takes its place, and maybe that thing is a great space. For happiness. Each time I encountered suffering, I believed that I grew, and further defined my capacities – not just my physical ones, but my interior ones as well, for contentment, friendship, or any other human experience.

I thought I knew what fear was, until I heard the words 'You have cancer'.

It's nice to win. I'll never win again. I may have to take up golf - take on Tiger.

I believe that the mind powers the body, and once the mind says we want to do it, then the body will follow.

How many times do I have to say it? … Well, it can't be any clearer than 'I've never taken drugs.'

I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.

In my most painful moments on the bike, I am at my most curious and I wonder each and every time how I will respond.