The riskiest thing you can do is get greedy.

I wanted to live, but whether I would or not was mystery, and in the midst of confronting that fact, even at that moment, I was beginning to sense that to stare into the heart of such a fearful mystery wasn't a bad thing. To be afraid is a priceless education. P 99

If you ever get a second chance in life for something, you've got to go all the way.

Pain is temporary. It may last a minute, or an hour, or a day, or a year, but eventually it will subside and something else will take its place. If I quit, however, it lasts forever.

My mother told me...if you're going to get anywhere, you're going to have to do it yourself, because no one is going to do it for you.

I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.

I think I bit off more than I could chew. I thought the marathon would be easier. For the level of condition that I have now... that was without a doubt the hardest physical thing I have ever done.