You can imagine me as a kid growing up in redneck Texas with ballet shoes, tucking the violin under my arm. I had to fight my way up.
Feel what the wave is doing, then accept its energy.
Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god
What winning is to me is not giving up, is no matter what's thrown at me, I can take it. And I can keep going.
It just blows me away that I am on, I don't know what generation of fans.
Life sure has a sick sense of humor, doesnโt it?