I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
Who couldn't believe there's a God?
My mom's hot. I mean she's old, but my mom's out of control.
My father's a protector. My father's old-school. He's a cowboy.
Sometimes I live in fear. But when I have to take chances about people I love, relationships, my daughter and immediate family, those decisions are easy.
I'm really close to all of my family.