One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other โ stoke . One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.
Shaun TomsonSurfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.
Shaun TomsonAcross all countries and cultures surfers are connected not by nationality, religion, politics, age โฆ but by their experience riding waves. This is a powerful experience both in the waves themselves and inside each surfer.
Shaun TomsonSurfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things unseen โ all of these make surfing very special
Shaun Tomson