What's great is that there are a lot of brands - like Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, and Rag & Bone - but they're all doing their own thing. That's what's important: to remain true to your own DNA.

To make a perfect t-shirt is hard - all you have is white cotton and fit. that's where experience comes in.

What's great is that there are a lot of brands - like Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, and Rag & Bone - but they're all doing their own thing. That's what's important: to remain true to your own DNA.

I like to think of us as a more European-fit American brand, and invariably, when you go to Savile Row for a suit, you'll find that the suit fits you like a glove. That's how it should fit: form to your body. Especially here in the States, men have to really understand the importance of that fit. If I'm dressing a friend, I'll usually give him a size down from the one he's asked for; he'll think it's too small, but after a while he gets it.

From working with Ralph Lauren, I started to understand what it meant to build a brand. There were times when I was working there that it seemed so repetitive. At the time, I didn't understand what was happening. But when I stepped out of it, I realized what he was doing was achieving a signature look and reiterating that. That's why when you think about a polo shirt you think about Ralph - he owns that garment.

I'm not sure that being a man in the fashion industry has any advantage over being a woman. Why would it?

There are so many fashion shows during fashion week, and the fashion show has almost become theater. It's all about the wow factor. And it's easy to make a name when you're shocking people all the time. But when you just make really, really great clothes, it can be difficult to get press and build a brand. What you do when you pare things back and make something timeless, though, is build a foundation to have a longer career and a stronger clientele.