I was in my thirties before I learnt that I too would prefer not to see what I could no longer have

The health of our seas determines the future of humanity.

I was in my thirties before I learnt that I too would prefer not to see what I could no longer have

The night is full of stories. They float up like miasmas, as though the dead leave their dreams in the earth where you bury them, only to have them rise to meet you in sleep. Mostly the scenes are familiar, but sometimes everything is strange, the people unknown.

Surfers are the canaries down the mine. Those of us who surf spend more time than anyone soaking in whatever the sea has become. We're suspended in consequences, you might say.

What I'm saying so badly is we're bred now to believe we're in control and should be in control.

Whether you're in the water staring up at a looming set or standing in front of 15000 people at a demo, you have to manufacture some courage and a sense of optimism in order to get through the moment, the day, the rest of your life.