I love the ocean, and I love surfing. It's something so special and unique, and surfing is unlike any other sport. Skateboarding is amazing, you get the adrenaline rush, but you don't get the feel of the ocean, of doing its own thing. Totally surrounding you. Definitely a unique thing, it's a blessing, and a huge part of my healing process I would say.
Bethany HamiltonLosing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.
Bethany HamiltonFear is something that can really hold us all back from different things in life. It's important to notice what your fears are and try to conquer them.
Bethany HamiltonI'm just waiting for God to tell me what to do, but whatever it is, I want to be doing something like I am doing now-serving God and helping people.
Bethany HamiltonSurfing is so unique and it's something that no matter what level you are, you can go and have fun. You can pick and choose the waves that you want to surf, so if it is too big and scary, you can wait until it changes and gets more to your level. Every time you go out it's always different and unique. It's almost like a place you can just de-stress.
Bethany Hamilton