Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.