Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.

This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.