It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.