I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

I'm the competitor, I'm the one who has to wear the brunt of that being a good or bad score. And I'm not too worried about it. I don't know why so many are to be honest with you.

It's all about where your mind's at

There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. It's not just a solitary thing - it's become a family thing, too. It's about exercising and passing something on from father to son, and from mother to daughter.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.