Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently its the most difficult thing in the world.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.