I thought it was all over. My lungs were filling with water and I began to black out. Then I saw an ancient warrior rise up out of the water. He said we'd make it, and we did. I believe we all have an angel watching us.

Look at it! It's a once in a lifetime opportunity, man! Let me go out there and let me get one wave, just one wave before you take me in. I mean, come on man, where I am I gonna go? Cliffs on both sides! I'm not gonna paddle my way to New Zealand! Come on, compadre. Come on!

My work... is my legacy.

I am very, very clear on how difficult it is for a young kid out there to go into the arts without taking a lot of heat from his peers.

If anybody had that cure out there like so many people swear to me they do, you'd be two things: you'd be very rich, and you'd be very famous. Otherwise, shut up.

When you dance, things just go away, things don't seem so bad.

Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god