My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.

Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave's life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'