Life's too short to sit around and wait.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

Fear - It's a fine line between that and pushing yourself. You definitely reach new heights when you push. But fear is good. Fear keeps us alive. If we didn't have it, we'd be doing crazy things and getting in sticky situations.

I've always had a determination to perfect whatever I'm doing. If I can't do something, I work on it until I figure it out.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.