Fear - It's a fine line between that and pushing yourself. You definitely reach new heights when you push. But fear is good. Fear keeps us alive. If we didn't have it, we'd be doing crazy things and getting in sticky situations.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave's life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.