Fear - It's a fine line between that and pushing yourself. You definitely reach new heights when you push. But fear is good. Fear keeps us alive. If we didn't have it, we'd be doing crazy things and getting in sticky situations.

Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave's life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.