Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave's life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave's life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'