Doing nothing is making certain you lose. Which is just gutless.

Surfing is one of the most joyful pursuits a human can take up. But there's no joy in a deadzone. If you've ever surfed in turds and medical waste you don't want to repeat the experience.

The ocean is a supreme metaphor for change. I expect the unexpected but am never fully prepared.

Every great moment of social change was once a confirmed impossibility. People's determination in the face of overwhelming odds has, time and again, triumphed over what seems impossible. This is what you tell yourself.

The desert is a spiritual place, we vaguely understand, and the sea the mere playground of our hedonism.

It's dark already and I'm out here again, talking, telling the story to the quiet night.

I was in my thirties before I learnt that I too would prefer not to see what I could no longer have