Who wants to be reputable? That's for golfers and tycoons with a sleazy past.

I was in my thirties before I learnt that I too would prefer not to see what I could no longer have

Surfing is one of the most joyful pursuits a human can take up. But there's no joy in a deadzone. If you've ever surfed in turds and medical waste you don't want to repeat the experience.

It’s how I fill the time when nothing’s happening. Thinking too much, flirting with melancholy.

Whatever you believe, you need faith to get through the day.

Yet however comforting and peaceful beach-combing is, it ends up like the sea, as disturbing as it is reassuring. In dark moments I believe that walking on a beach at low tide is to be looking for death, or at least anticipating it. You will only find the dead, the spilled and the cast-off. Things torn free of their life or their place.

People are fools, not monsters