Who wants to be reputable? That's for golfers and tycoons with a sleazy past.

Surfers travelled and opened up and changed. It became more mainstream, less of a cult. And it diversified. On any given day in the water now I'll meet three generations of surfers, male and female, everyone sporting a different craft. I started surfing in the 60s and I can tell you it's infinitely more diverse. It might be more crowded but it's also more interesting.

And the sun on the wall of her room, the block of sun with all the tiny flying things in it. When she was little she thought they were the souls of dead insects, still buzzing in the light.

Who wants to be reputable? That's for golfers and tycoons with a sleazy past.

What I'm saying so badly is we're bred now to believe we're in control and should be in control.

Wherever I went I felt like the last person awake in a room full of sleepers

Hunting and gathering are in my blood. But I've lived long enough to witness a diminution in the seas, and to notice a fragility where once I saw - or assumed - an endless bounty.