Whether any surfer wants to admit it or not, I think we've all had moments like looking at nice waves coming through the lineup maybe, only for a moment, feeling that we are in the presence of something holy. There is a spiritual-ness when you actually get in harmony with something as natural as the waves and the ocean, and yeah, it is definitely a religious experience.
Gerry LopezOne thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.
Gerry LopezWell, in regards to surfing, Iโve learned that there is always another wave coming. Translated that means there is always tomorrow. No matter how badly you get caught inside, if you can just hang in there and keep paddling, the set is going to pass and there will be a lull afterwards. So donโt give up, just take your pounding, wait until the set passes, then make your move.
Gerry Lopez